Page 84 - CITS - Fashion Design Technology - Trade Theory

FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS

• Doo Rookhi Printing is also famous here. In this technique, artists print on both sides of the cloth. Is famous
for its fine hand block printing in subdued colours.
• Sanganer famous for is dyeing and printing of colourful dresses, bed sheets, curtains, dress material and
variety of other textiles and known as a centre of plain and dyed clothes.
• Wooden blocks are made of teak wood and vegetable dyes made of madder, pomegranate rind, indigo,
and turmeric are used.Now days replaced by chemical dyes
• Sanganer has become a export hub for hand block print export.
2 Bagru print
Bagru is famous for its Syahi-Begar prints and Dabu prints.
• The Syahi-Begar Prints are designs in a combination of black and yellow ochre or cream.

• The Dabu Prints are prints in which portions are hidden from the dye by applying a resist paste.
• Barmer is known for its prints of red chilies with blue-black outlines, surrounded by flower-laden trees. The
other famous prints are of horses, camels, peacocks and lions, called Sikar and Shekahawat prints. Motifs
are simple and include floral and linear patterns.
• Main colors used are black, blue, red and maroon. Extracted from naturally occurring sources
• Black from worn-out iron horse or camel shoes soaked in water.Red from gum paste and phitkari, Maroon
by mixing the above two.
• For picking a particular color, there is a traditional reason such as indigo for lord krishna, saffron for a saint
or yogi, yellow for spring season, etc.
3 Dabu print
Dabu is an traditional form of block printing technique in India which uses floral and thematic patterns of design.
In this fabric dyeing technique, it uses organic colours and vegetable pastes. Hence, they are eco-friendly and
skin-friendly. It is a mud-resist hand block printing technique used in state of Rajasthan.
Tools& raw material for block printing
• Wooden block- Used to print the patterns on the cloth.

• Fabric-It is used for printing
• Printing table- It is used for printing.
• Wooden tray with a bamboo lattice bed cover-It is used for spreading of the color evenly.
• Printing pad- It is used to spread the color evenly.
• Pins- used to tighten the cloth on the tighten the cloth on the table.

• Brushes-used to clean the surface for better printing.
• Scale- used for marking the areas to be printed.
• Sponge woolen cloth-used to spread the colour evenly in the wooden tray.
• Colour/ink-used for block printing

Procedure of block printing
Step 1: Block carving
It is the Chhipa Community (Rajasthan) that possesses a majority of block carvers, dyers and printers in India.
Block carving is the first step in the block printing process and like many other crafts in India, has been in
existence since time immemorial. The block-carving artisans make use of tools such as small hammers, chisels
and drills to be able to carve elaborate patterns into wooden blocks.

After the carving process, these blocks are dipped in mustard oil and allowed to rest for at least a week. This helps
prevent cracking of the blocks upon exposure to dry conditions. The carvers also drill miniature holes into the
wooden blocks to allow the wood to breathe. This also extends the life of a wooden block by upto a few decades.

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CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology - Lesson 4 CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology - Lesson 4