Page 223 - CTS - Sewing Technology - TP - Volume - 2-0

SEWING TECHNOLOGY - CITS

• Rotary hook: To form stitch

• Bobbin: To pass the bobbin thread
• Bobbin case: To hold the bobbin
• Hook finger: To hold the rotary hook
• Oil pump: To supply the oil
Practice operation of single needle lock stitch machine

• Sit comfortably at a proper height.
• Position the machine with the body on the right and the needle end on the left.
• Mount the needle, ensuring the groove faces the direction of threading.

• Wind the bobbin according to your machine’s instructions.
• Keep the bobbin in the bobbin case and fix it in the sewing machine
• Thread the machine, following the thread guide and take up lever.
• Adjust the stitch length as required.
• Place your fabric under the needle.

• Lower the needle into the fabric by turning the wheel towards you.
• Begin stitching using a basic stitch.
• Sew until you’re about 1/4 inch from the fabric edge.
• Use back tack at staring and ending the sewing.

Practice on operations of Overlock machine/Safety
stitching

At the end of this exercise you shall be able to
• identify the parts of over lock machine components
• thread the over lock machine
• adjust the stitch length
• change differential feed mechanism.

TASK 1: Identify the major parts of over lock machine (Fig 1)

1 Oil window glass : It is used to indicates the oil level in the oil tank
2 Balance wheel: On the balance wheel the stitch length specification is given.
3 Side plate : After threading the looper and during stitching ensure the plate to be closed completely.
4 Tension disc : For 5 thread over 2 needle thread tension disc and 2 looper tension is given.

5 Presser foot pressure hub : Based on the fabric the tension will be adjusted by using pressure foot hub.
6 Presser foot : Compensating pressure is given to hold the fabric and avoiding ply shift.
7 Feed dog : Differential feed dog is placed.
8 Knife : Adjacent the needle, the blade is placed to cut the raw edges and then start the sewing process.

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CITS : Apparel - Sewing Technology - Exercise 36