Page 380 - CTS - Sewing Technology - TP - Volume - 2-0

SEWING TECHNOLOGY - CITS

Module 8 : Pattern Making of Jacket / Coat

EXERCISE 42 : Corpulent Shirt

Objectives

At the end of this exercise you shall be able to
• draft a gents shirt for abnormal corpulent figure.

Procedure

Fig 1

TASK 1: Take measurement
Measurement in cm:
Full length - 76 cm
Chest - 105cm
Waist - 110 cm
Natural waist length - 43cm
Yoke - 48cm
Neck- 42cm
Sleeve length - 58cm

Waist measure less than Chest (10 cm) - Proportional figure
Waist and Chest measure same - Semi corpulant figure
Waist measure more than Chest - Corpulant figure
The exact amount of disproportion to be found
Example : Proportional waist = Chest - 10 = 95 cm
Disproportion = Actual waist - proportional waist
If waist is 110 cm = 110 - 95 = 15cm.
Disproportion is 15cm
Things to remember while making pattern for Corpulent figure:
1 For such person the shoulder to waist length is kept more in front and shorter in back.
2. Depth of scye in front is more than in the back.
3 While making a garment for the upper half of the body, more length of the front may be receded to be joined
with the back portion, as the back portion shall be kept shorter.

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