Page 144 - CITS - Dress Making - TT - 2024

DRESS MAKING - CITS

Objective of using interlining
Followings are the primary objective of using interlining in garments.
• Interlinings are primarily used for imparting strength/support, stability and shape retention.
• When fused to the outer shell fabric it acts as a composite and stabilizes the outer shell against any distortion
under stress
• Helps improve aesthetic and hand feel of fused laminate.
• Helps retain the shape of the fused part during use and after care treatment
• Improves longevity of fused part

2 Types of fusing process used in garments
There are three types of fusing process used in garments which are mentioned in the below:
a Reverse fusing: In this process, the fabric of interlining is spread on the fusing bed and the part consists of
resin is directed upward. Then the fabric of garments is spread on the resonated part of fabric and fusing is
done there. This is called reverse fusing. In this process, the area of interlining is comparatively small than
the fabric of apparel, as a result proper spreading is difficult here.
b Sandwich fusing: Generally, fusing is done by continuous fusing machine where the heat is applied from
both sides of fabric. In this process, two pairs of fabrics are fused i.e. the two interlinings are placed between
or in the middle of two fabrics of apparel. If the heat and pressure are not applied properly then four layers
may be joined due to the effect of striking back during fusing. By using this process, the production can be
increased but needs more time. It may have unsatisfactory in fused garments.
c Double fusing: In this process, two types of interlining are joined with the garment fabrics in a step during
fusing. There is needed to control the temperature during fusing and it must be able to set the interlinings
parts and garment parts properly. This type of fusing is generally done in collar and the front part of jacket.
3 Defects during fusing process
There are mainly two types of faults found during fusing. Those are explained in the below:

a Striking back: When two parts of fabrics are joined by pressure and heat during fusing, it must have the
control to the temperature and pressure. Sometimes the pressure and heat are not controlled properly
during fusing so that the resin is passed through the lower part of fabric. It is called striking back.
b Striking through: When two parts of fabrics are joined by pressure and heat during fusing, it must have
the control to the temperature and pressure. Sometimes the pressure and heat are not controlled properly
during fusing so that the resin is passed through the upper part of fabric. It is called striking through.
4 The fusing process
Regardless of which fusible and machine are used, fusing is controlled by four processing components:
a Temperature - There is a limited range of temperatures that are effective for each type of resin. Too high a
temperature causes the resin to become too viscous, which could result in the resin being forced through
to the right side of the cloth
b Time - Time is the only time element of any value during the fusing process is when the top cloth and fusible
are under pressure in the heating zone of the machine .This time cycle for a particular fusible is determined
by; whether the fusible has a high –or low melt resin, if a high or heavy substrate is being used and by the
nature of the top cloth being used, thick or thin, dense or open.
c Pressure - When the resin is viscous, pressure is applied to the top cloth and fusible assembly to ensure
that full contact is made between the top cloth and fusible, heat transfer is at the optimum level and there
is an even penetration of the viscous resin into the fibres of the top cloth.

d Cooling - Enforced cooling is used so that the fused assemblies can be handled immediately after fusing.
Cooling can be induced by various systems including water-cooled plates, compressed air circulation and
vacuum.

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 13 - 21 (2)