Page 148 - CITS - Dress Making - TT - 2024

DRESS MAKING - CITS

4 The basic sewing parameters include

• Stitches,
• Seams,
• A method of sewing.
Stitch
Loop or loops of one or more threads when bounds with each other, either by interlacing, interloping, interloping
or combination of those when sewing fabric, each unit of such configuration is called stitch.
Seam
Seam is a line where two pieces of fabric are sewn together in a garment or other articles. A seam is basically a
line of stitching. Seams are stitched on the seam line. The seam allowance is the distance between the seam line
and the cut edge.

5 Sewing machine types
- Plain machine: Top stitch, Label attaching
- Over lock machine: Sleeve joining, Side seam joining, Shoulder joining
- Flat lock machine:
• Cylinder bed: All types of top stitch

• Flat-bed: Folding and Piping
• Compressor: Bottom hem and Sleeve hem
• Feed of the arm: Back tap and Arm tap
-. Kansai machine: Placket, Waist band

- Button hole machine: Button holing and stitching it
- Button attaching machine: Button attaching
- Snap button machine: Snap button attaching
- Chain stitch machine: Waist band
6 Sewing faults, causes and remedy

Sl. No Sewing Faults Causes Remedy

1 Needle thread breakage Misaligned off winding from thread Ensure that the overhead
package; excessive tension, poor guide is above cop stand
quality thread pin; use a stronger thread

2 Bobbin or looper thread Badly wound thread on the Adjust bobbin winder
breakage bobbin alignment
3 Tread fusing when Poorly finished or incorrect thread Use better quality thread
machine stop
4 Skipped stitches Hook, looper or needle failing to Changes machine
enter thread loops at the correct clearance and timings
time
5 Imbalance stitching In correct sewing tension Check for snarling, adjust
thread tensions
6 Variable stitch density Poor fabric feed control Increase the pressure feet
pressure

7 Seam pucker Variable different fabric feed Improve the fabric feed
mechanism

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 13 - 21 (3) CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 13 - 21 (3)