Page 145 - CITS - Dress Making - TT - 2024

DRESS MAKING - CITS

5 The requirements of fusing
• The laminate produced by fusing should show the aesthetic qualities required by the designer in the finished
garment.

• The strength of bond of the laminate must be sufficient to withstand handling during subsequent operations
in the garment manufacturing process as well as the flexing which takes place in wear.
• Fusing must takes place without either strike-through or strike back occurring. When the softened adhesive
resin is pressed into the garment fabric, it is important that it does not go right through to the face side of
that fabric, and that it does not go back to the outside of the interlining base cloth.
• The fusing process must not cause thermal shrinkage in the outer fabric. Fusing commonly takes place at
around 150oc and at this temperature many fabrics may subject to thermal shrinkage.
• A further possible effect of the heat of the fusing process is that of dye sublimation. Fabrics may change
colour to a level which is unacceptable and in a way which causes a miss-match between the fused and
unfused parts of the garment.
• Since the fusing process involves pressure, there is a risk that pile fabrics may be subject to crushing
during fusing.
• Where shower proof fabrics are fused, there is a possibility that the presence of a fused interlining in the
garment may wick water through the fabric in the fused areas while the unfused areas remain satisfactorily
shower proofed. Water resistant interlinings have been developed for these situations.

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 13 - 21 (2)