Page 186 - CITS - Dress Making - TT - 2024

DRESS MAKING - CITS

MODULE 8 : More About Darts

Lesson 31 - 35 (1) : Dart

Objectives

At the end of this lesson you shall be able to
• Know about the importance of darts and their terms
• Identify basic dart locations for creating design patterns
• Understand about dart excess directions and completion.

1.1. Dart Terms
• Bust point: A designated place on the bust and pattern and referred to in flat patternmaking as the pivotal
point or apex (Fig 1).
• Dart: A wedge-shaped cut-out in a pattern to control the fit of a garment when stitched.
• Dart legs: The two lines that converge at a predetermined point on the pattern.
• Dart intake: The amount of excess (or space) confined between dart legs. Its purposes are to take up excess
where it is not needed and to gradually release fabric where it is needed to control the fit of the garment.

Fig 1

1.2. Charting Dart Locations
To make a chart of dart locations, trace a copy of the basic front bodice pattern and draw guidelines from bust
point, marking each dart location. The guidelines establish common areas for dart relocation and for creating
design patterns. However, they are not the only dart locations because a dart can be transferred anywhere around
the pattern’s outline. The selected dart locations have specific uses and names.

• Label the waist dart legs A and B.
• The French dart can be placed at any angle below the straight dart.
• The C.F. (center front) bust dart and straight dart are squared from the center front.
• The mid-armhole dart is directed from bust point to the armhole notch.

• The shoulder dart is placed at the princess line.

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