Page 191 - CITS - Dress Making - TT - 2024
P. 191
DRESS MAKING - CITS
• Place pattern on paper and retrace.
• Mark new dart point 5/8 inch from bust point.
• Draw dart legs to dart point.
Single-Dart Series - Pivotal-Transfer Technique
Waist Dart shifted to Mid-Neck Dart
Manipulation steps:
• Place the working pattern on paper with a push pin through the bust point (pivotal point).
• Mark the mid-neck location (point C) and dart leg A on paper.
• Trace the section of pattern from dart leg A to C (shaded area).
• Pivot pattern until dart leg B touches A on paper (closes waist dart and opens space for the mid neck dart).
• Trace the remaining section of the pattern from dart leg B to point C on the pattern (blue line and shaded
area). (Note: When the pattern is pivoted, it will overlay the previously traced pattern section. This is a natural
occurrence. Remember, once a section of the pattern is traced, it is not traced again.)
• Remove the working pattern from paper.
• Draw dart legs to bust point.
• Center the dart point 5/8 inch from the bust point.
• Redraw dart legs to the dart point.
• Add 1/2-inch seams and 1/4 inch at neckline.
Two-Dart Series - A two-dart working pattern (waist and side dart) will be developed for the projects that follow.
The two-dart pattern is used in industry more often than a one-dart pattern. There are advantages to dividing the
dart excess into more than one location other than the creative aspects of the design.
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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 31 - 35 (2) CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 31 - 35 (2)