Page 213 - CITS - Dress Making - TT - 2024

DRESS MAKING - CITS

b One-sided fullness: One side of a pattern is spread to increase fullness, forming an arc shape at the top and
bottom.

c Unequal fullness: One side of the pattern is spread more than the other, forming an arc shape at the top and
bottom.

1.2 Identifying Added Fullness
Fullness from the basic dart is always directed to the bust. Therefore, designs can be identified as having added
fullness if fullness passes through the length or width of the garment (Fig 1), when fullness is directed away from
the bust (Fig 2), and when the garment extends beyond the outline of the figure (Fig 3).

Fullness may appear in the form of gathers, pleats, drape, cowls, or flares. Fullness can be on the horizontal or
vertical, or at an angle, and can be developed as equal, unequal, or one-sided fullness. The dart may become
part of added fullness when needed. Added fullness may be combined with Dart Manipulation and Contouring.
1.3 Method for Plotting the Pattern for Added Fullness

Added fullness is plotted as a series of straight slash lines drawn across the pattern in the direction the fullness
appears on the design (horizontally, vertically, or on an angle). When preparing the pattern, the beginning and
end of each slash line depend on where the fullness begins and ends on the design. The dart excess is often
absorbed into the added fullness.

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 36 - 41 (3) CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 36 - 41 (3)