Page 214 - CITS - Dress Making - TT - 2024

DRESS MAKING - CITS

1.4 Formula for Adding Fullness
To determine the amount of added fullness desired, give consideration to the fabric type. Light-weight and loosely
woven fabrics (cottons and chiffons, for example) may require more fullness than bulky, closely woven fabrics.
Using a 26-inch waist as an example, added fullness may equal:
One and one-half times the measurement (26 inch + 13 inch = 39 inch)
Two times the measurement (26 inch + 26 inch = 52 inch)

Two and one-half times the measurement (26 inch + 26 inch +13 inch = 65 inch)
To help train the eye in visualizing different amounts of fullness, make examples, using 10 inches as the measure
to be increased. Follow the formula for each example. The finished length of each sample should be 10 inches.
Save the examples for use when determining fullness.
2 Fullness on the Princess line
Design Analysis

The princess is gathered on each side of style line from waist to under bust and at
front side seam, indicating parallel fullness.
Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Fig 1
• Trace front and side front princess panels. Include grainline.
• Draw slash lines where the gathers indicate.
• Number each section and cut from paper.
Fig 2, 3
• Draw grain guidelines on paper.

• Cut through slash lines separating patterns.
• Place cut pattern parts on paper with center front on fold. Match grainline of
pattern with guideline. Spread equally using the ratio 1 1/2:1 or 2:1 (shaded
area). Secure pattern parts.
• Trace outline of pattern and blend style line.

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3

199

CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 36 - 41 (3) CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 36 - 41 (3)