Page 219 - CITS - Dress Making - TT - 2024

DRESS MAKING - CITS

4 Fitting Problems:
The following fitting problems will occur if the pattern is not adjusted for designs that contour the figure:
• When a portion of the neckline or armhole is cut out, the garment loses support of the shoulder and will fall
to the hollow area over the bust, creating gapping.
• Empire, strapless, and bra designs have little or no bust definition. (That is, the designs will not fit closely
under the bust to contour but hang loosely over the hollows of the figure)

5 The Contour Guide Patterns
The Contour Guide Patterns are tools that help the patternmaker circumvent fitting problems before they are
incorporated into the design. The patterns are charted with guidelines that indicate the amount of excess to be
removed from style lines or darts for a closer fit.

The guidelines are labeled by design types and represent the measurement between the garment and the hollow
areas of the figure (above, below, and between the bust mounds), decreasing in both directions to the bust point
and to the pattern’s outline. The back bodice is charted for designs having low-cut necklines and for strapless
garments.
Illustrated are the front and back Contour Guide Patterns after the guidelines have been charted. The development
and use of these patterns are illustrated in the projects that follow.

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 42 - 45 (1)