Page 218 - CITS - Dress Making - TT - 2024

DRESS MAKING - CITS

MODULE 10 : Advance Pattern Making

Lesson 42- 45 (1) : CONTOURING

Objectives

At the end of this lesson you shall be able to
• Know about Contouring and fitting problems
• Prepare the Contour Guide Patterns
• Deals with the methods used to circumvent fitting problems.

1 Contouring

Principle: To fit the contours of the upper torso closer than does the basic garment, the pattern must be reduced
within its frame to fit the dimensions of the body above, below, and between the bust and shoulder blades.
To fit the upper torso closer than does the basic garment, the outline of the pattern is trimmed to fit the slope of
the shoulder and the side seam ease is eliminated.
2 Contour Designs
Contour designs follow the contour of the body rather than bridging the hollow areas around the bust and shoulder
blades. Contour designs include the empire style line (contouring under the bust), strapless bra top (contouring
over, under, and at times between the bust), surplice (contouring over and under the bust), and cutout armholes
and necklines (contouring above the bust).
To avoid fitting problems, patterns developed for contour designs are based on Contouring. Fitting problems occur
if adjustments are not made to compensate for the differences between the pattern and the body’s dimensions.
The following information deals with the methods used to circumvent fitting problems through the use of the
remarkable Contour Guide Patterns.
3 Figure Versus Basic Garment

The contour of the figure is shown enclosed in a basic garment. (Visualize the garment as transparent.) The
garment touches the outer limits of the figure and bridges the hollow areas. Study the relationship between the
contours of the figure (shaded areas) and the garment. The hollow areas above, below, and in between the bust
mounds do not come in contact with the garment. The figure’s dimensions measure less in those areas than does
the garment or pattern. The differences are measurable, and compensation can be made for them by using the
Contour Guide Patterns.

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