Page 215 - CITS - Dress Making - TT - 2024

DRESS MAKING - CITS

3 Fullness at a Semi-yoke Above bust
Design Analysis
A short style line above the bust, controls gathers that end at mid-armhole.
Pattern Plot and Manipulation
Fig 1

• Trace front bodice.
• Square from center front to mid-armhole.
• Square a slash line to dart point. Label X.
• Draw slash lines in the direction fullness falls and cut pattern from paper.

Fig 2 (Added Fullness and Dart Excess Interact)
• Cut from mid-armhole to point X and from bust point to point X, separating pattern.
• Close waist dart, overlapping dart point 3/4 inch.
• Fullness created by the spread areas next to bust compensates for any loss of
measurement due to overlap.
• Cut remaining slash lines to, not through, waist.
• Place on paper and spread each slash 3/4 inch.
• Trace pattern’s outline and blend.
• Draw grainline and complete for test fit using basic back pattern.

Fig 1 Fig 2

4 Added Fullness to a Dart Leg
Design Analysis: Analyze the design and plot of the patterns.
Pattern Plot and Manipulation: (Figures 1a, b)
• Remove dart excess from shoulder.
• Plot the front and back design as indicated.

• Trim excess. Back-trim shoulder.
Fig 2
• Slash dart legs to bust point. Close waist dart.
• Dart leg is shaped to contour the bust. Cut pattern from paper. Draw slash
lines

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 36 - 41 (3) CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 36 - 41 (3)