Page 224 - CITS - Dress Making - TT - 2024

DRESS MAKING - CITS

Nature of the Bias Cut
The lengthwise grain and cross-grain run in opposite directions as the cowl hangs from the shoulder (or from any
part of a garment). The fold of the cowl follows more closely to the lengthwise grain on one side, and on the other
side the fold follows more closely to the cross-grain. The lengthwise grain, which is twisted more firmly than the
cross-grain, may cause the fold of the cowls to roll differently and often is the reason for twisting.

2.1 Twisting
Place a finger at the center of each fold of the cowl. Press downward gently. If the fold of the cowl(s) twists, re
drape the cowl on the side of the twist until the fold falls smoothly. Correct the pattern (the sides may differ).

2.2 Making Patterns for Bias-Cut Cowls
Basic patterns are generally developed for garments cut on the straight grain of woven fabrics, not for those cut on
the bias. The cowl patterns require adjustments if the garment is to fit. The cowl is cut on perfect bias and draped
on the form for a first fitting to determine the stretch of the bias.
The amount that the cowl bodice stretches when fit on the form is marked and trimmed or added to the original
pattern. The adjustments cause the pattern to be reduced in size to the amount that it will stretch. When recut, it
should fit in the final test.

209

CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 42 - 45 (2)