Page 225 - CITS - Dress Making - TT - 2024

DRESS MAKING - CITS

2.3 Finding True Bias
• To find true bias, fold the cross-grain to the lengthwise grain - or parallel to it.
• Smooth the fabric and pin along the edges to hold.
• Mark the fold line with chalk or thread line loosely to indicate true bias.
• The cowl pattern should be traced on marking paper first and then pinned to the fold of the fabric. (Place tissue
underneath the fabric to prevent slippage when cutting)
2.4 Fitting the Cowl Drape
If there is a dart (preferably a French dart), pin or baste first. Pin cowl to the shoulder line with center lines matching.
Allow the bias fabric to fall and stretch. Smooth fabric past side seams and waistline. Pin where indicated. With
sharpened chalk, mark the outline of the form on the drape (right side only unless the design is asymmetric).

2.5. Correcting the Pattern
• Remove drape from the form.

• Measure the difference between the original pattern and the marked outline.
• Mark the original pattern at the chalk-marked outline and draw blending lines. Adjust the pattern (under the
armhole). Recut and check the fit.

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 42 - 45 (2)