Page 178 - CTS - Dress Making - TP - Volume - 1
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DRESS MAKING - CITS




           EXERCISE 47 : Women’s  Shirt


            Objectives
           At the end of this exercise you shall be able to
           •  women’s shirt.


           This is an upper for torso wear, used by girls and women. The feature of the shirt is having the front open with
           button fastening. Either Short Sleeve or Long Sleeve is to be constructed. Normally one right Side chest pocket or
           two side chest pockets are required. Drafting of women’s shirts is not easy like a line frock drafting. In this article
           I will explain how to drafting women’s shirts step by step.
           Suitable fabrics:

           Cotton 100%, Cambric, Poplin, Denim [medium weight] Seer sucker, Polyester, Poly-crepe, Silk and Satin.
           Material required:
           2. 25 metre cloth width 36”, 1.90 metre cloth width 42” to 44” and 1.60 metre cloth width 60”.
           Pattern parts:

           Front cut 2. Back Cut 1. Sleeves cut 2. Cuffs cut 4. Yoke cut 2. Sleeve placket cut 4.
           Measurements required:
           Full length 28”, Shoulder width 17”, N. W. length 16 ½”, Mid Bust 36”, Waist 30”, Hip 38”, Neck 14, Short Sleeve
           length 10”, Long sleeve length 23”, Cult 2 ½ x 11”, Pocket Size 4 ¾“ x 5 ¼ .

            Women’s Shirt Drafting Procedure

           Women’s Shirt Drafting Procedure
           Front part
           1 – 0 = Full length + 1 ¼“ for bottom hem + Seam.
           2 – 0 = Armhole depth is Bust ¼ (-) 1 ¼”.
           3 – 0 = N. W. length + ½”.

           4 – 2 = Bust 1/4 + 1 ½”.
           5 – 3 = Same as 4 to 2 (-) ¾”.
           6 – 1 = Same as 4 to 2 + ¾”.
           7 – 0 = ½ shoulder width + ½” for seam.
           8 – 0 = 1/5th Neck + ¼”.
           9 – 0 = 1/5th Neck shape neck part 9 to 8 as per draft.
           10 – 8 = 1/5th Neck.
           11 – 7 = shoulder’s slope 1 ½”.

           A to B 3 ⁄ 4 ‘’ upward at the lower arm hole curve portion. C = is the centre of 3 to 5 measures. Dart length 8”. Dart
           intake is ½” as per draft making this waist dart in front and back portion of the shirt will give the proper fitness in
           the waist portion of the shirt. 9 to 9A the button standing line is ¾”. 9B to 9A is the parallel line to the drawn.
           Back part:
           1 – 0 = Back part starting line.
           12 – 0 = 1/5th Neck + ¼”.
           12 – 13 = upward 2 ¼”.
           14 – 11 is down ward 2 ¼ ”.
           14 to 15 is the back armhole curve.



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