Page 175 - CTS - Dress Making - TP - Volume - 1

DRESS MAKING - CITS

Remember, cowl necklines are not only aesthetically pleasing
but also relatively simple to draft. They add sophistication to
tops and dresses. Feel free to experiment and tailor your cowl
neck pattern to different garments and occasions!
For more detailed guidance, you can explore tutorials online
or take pattern-making courses that specifically cover cowl
necklines.

Cowl Neckline
Determine the cowl length and depth

First you must decide on the finished cowl’s depth, which determines how low the
neckline falls and how much the cowl drapes. Front and back cowls can be made
using the method described on the following pages.

1 Trace any pattern for a basic knit top, such as a T-shirt. Mark the pattern’s
original neck point at the shoulder seam (at the base of your neck where it joins
the top of the shoulder) with a large dot.
2 Lower the pattern’s neckline, if it is a high-jewel or crewneck. The neckline
shown was lowered at center front to sit 5 inches below the collarbones, and
the curve was redrawn. Cut away the original neckline.

3 On your body, drape a measuring tape with each end positioned
at your neck points. Loosen or tighten the tape measure’s drape to
determine your preferred cowl depth. Note the measurement from
neck point to neck point, and divide it in half. This is the amount of
change applied to the pattern in the next steps. For example, if the
total desired measurement is 20 inches, then the amount of change
to the pattern is 10 inches. The front cowls of the red velvet top, at
left, and the blue top, on page 24, are each 20 inches long; the red
top’s back cowl is 24 inches long. Check out this Teach Yourself to
Sew article for more pointers on obtaining accurate measurements.

Alter the Pattern
Using the slash-and-spread method, extend the pattern’s neckline and add
drape for a cowl.

1 From the pattern’s center front, draw three arcs. End the two uppermost
arcs at the shoulder seam and the lower arc about two thirds down the
armscye. The exact position isn’t critical, but each arc must intersect the
center-front line at a 90-degree angle
2 Cut along all three arcs from center front to, but not through, the seamlines.
Also, snip from the cutting line to the seamline, leaving a hinge at the seam
line. Back the pattern with a large sheet of tissue or pattern paper.

3 Draw a vertical line from the center front neckline edge upward and about
8 inches long. Anchor the pattern’s bottom center-front corner to the tissue
with a pin or piece of transparent tape.

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Exercise 46