Page 180 - CTS - Dress Making - TP - Volume - 1

DRESS MAKING - CITS

The Basic Trouser Block

Measurements:
1 Waist: Measure around the narrowest part of the waist.
2 Hip: Measure around the fullest part of the hip.
3 Front Rise: Measure from the waistline in front to the crotch seam.

4 Back Rise: Measure from the waistline in the back to the crotch seam.
5 Thigh: Measure around the fullest part of the thigh.
6 Knee: Measure around the knee.
7 Ankle: Measure around the ankle.

8 Inseam: Measure from the crotch seam to the desired trouser length.
Notes:
1 Ensure measurements are taken snugly but not too tight.
2 Add ease for comfort and movement. Typically 1-2 inches at the waist and hip, and 1 inch at the
thigh, knee, and ankle.
3 Consider the fabric stretch for accurate fitting.
4 Adjustments may be needed based on individual body shapes and preferences.
5 Always make a muslin toile to test the fit before cutting into the final fabric.
6 Seam allowances are not included in the measurements; add them based on your sewing
preferences.
Long Description:
The basic trouser block serves as the foundation for creating well-fitted trousers of various styles. It starts with
accurate measurements taken at key points of the body: waist, hip, front and back rise, thigh, knee, ankle, and
inseam. These measurements are crucial for tailoring trousers that fit comfortably and flatteringly.

When taking measurements, it’s essential to ensure accuracy by using a flexible tape measure and following a
standardised procedure. The waist measurement should be taken at the narrowest part of the waist, usually just
above the belly button. The hip measurement is taken around the fullest part of the hips and buttocks. The front
and back rise measurements determine the length from the waistline to the crotch seam, both in front and back,
respectively.
Thigh, knee, and ankle measurements are taken around the fullest parts of these areas. The inseam measurement
is the length from the crotch seam to the desired trouser length, typically ending at the ankle or wherever the
wearer prefers.
Once these measurements are obtained, it’s important to add ease for comfort and movement. This is usually
done by adding 1-2 inches of ease at the waist and hip and 1 inch at the thigh, knee, and ankle. However, this can
vary depending on the fabric used and personal preference.
Additionally, consideration should be given to the fabric’s stretch, as this will affect the fit of the trousers.
Adjustments may be necessary based on individual body shapes and fitting preferences.
Before cutting into the final fabric, it’s highly recommended to create a muslin toile, a mock-up of the trousers
made from inexpensive fabric. This allows for adjustments to be made to the fit without wasting the final fabric.

Finally, seam allowances are not included in the measurements provided for the basic trouser block. Seam
allowances should be added based on the sewer’s preference and the specific construction techniques being
used.

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Exercise 47