Page 202 - CTS - Dress Making - TP - Volume - 1

DRESS MAKING - CITS

Fig 1 Fig 2

While setting knife pleats there are three possible proportions among pleat depth and pleat width:
– pleat depth = pleat width g normal pleats
– pleat depth < pleat width g shallow pleats
– pleat depth > pleat width g overlapping pleats (Fig 3)

Box pleats are made by two single pleats in opposite direction. A full box pleat is folded under from two sides, so
that the inner folds meet. It has two fold lines and two placement lines. (Fig 4)

Fig 3 Fig 4

Inverted pleats are also made by two single pleats. They have two fold lines and a single common placement line.
The two outer folds in the center of the pleat meet on right side. (Fig 5)
Pleats can be pressed crisply or can be left as unpressed to hang as soft folds. For pressed pleats, garment fabrics
that crease easily are the most suitable. Pressing should be done with a pressing cloth.
If pleats shall be sharp, use steam or damp cloth to set the creases, then ensure that the pleats dry thoroughly
before moving them. During construction of pleats they are pressed before basting stitches are removed.
To hold the pleats in position they can either be edge stitched or topstitched from the waist towards the hip. (Fig 6)
If pleats are formed on a checked fabric it must be taken care that repeats of check are consistent and that folds
have appropriate depth to hang satisfactorily (not too deep and not too shallow).
Pleats on checked fabric can be set without drawing construction lines, since the lengthwise check lines can be
used as such.

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Exercise 48