Page 204 - CTS - Dress Making - TP - Volume - 1

DRESS MAKING - CITS

Fig 1 Fig 2

a How many normal pleats should be made?
b What should be the length of the strip of material for the pleated section?
Solution

a 50 cm : 2.5 cm = 20 (pleats)
b 50 cm x 3 = 150 cm (pattern width)
150 cm + 2 cm = 152 cm = 1.52 m
Explanation: Exercise (b) can be solved in accordance with the general rule derived from Example 1. In the case
of normal knife pleats, however, there is a simpler procedure: The pattern width is always three times the pleated
width, i.e. it is independent of pleat depth and pleat width (because of the triple layer of the material per pleat.
Box pleats: A box pleat consists of two normal knife pleats whose inner folds lie against each other. The pleat
width is twice the pleat depth.
Example: A skirt has a box-pleat at the front. The pleated width of the skirt front at the hem should be 60 cm
(when the pleat is flat). The pleat depth is to be 12 cm. What should be the pattern width of the front part of the
skirt at the bottom (without seam allowance) (Fig 3)
Solution
12 cm x 2 = 24 cm

24 cm x 2 = 48 cm
48 cm + 60 cm = 108 cm = 1.08 m
Pattern width should be 1.08 m.
Inverted pleats: An inverted pleat consists of two normal knife pleats whose outer folds lie against each other.
The pleat width is twice as much as the pleat depth.
Example: For comfort, a dress is provided with an inverted pleat at the center back seam. The pleat depth should
be 6.5 cm. The pleated section of the back portion at the bottom should be 66 cm (when the pleat is flat). What
should be the pattern width of the back portion (without considering allowances) (Fig 4)

Fig 3 Fig 4

189

CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Exercise 48