Page 207 - CTS - Dress Making - TP - Volume - 1

DRESS MAKING - CITS

Cross tucks are stitched in both directions, vertical and horizontal. The lengthwise tucks are stitched first, then
pressed in one direction before the widthwise tucks are stitched. (Fig 3)

A tuck can be given a special decorative effect by making it into a shell tuck. This tuck has a scalloped edge. They
can be formed on single edge or as multiple rows. Thin and medium weight fabrics are best suited for that purose.
(Fig 4)

Fig 3 Fig 4

A group of blind tucks can be made to show a scalloped effect. For that purpose the fold of tucks should be a little
wider. The tucks are top stitched perpendicular to the tucks first in one direction, then their folds are placed in the
opposite direction to be topstitched again perpendicular to the tucks. This process is repeated on the full length of
tucks at regular intervals. Thin and medium weight fabrics are best suited for shell tucks and scalloped tucks. (Fig 5)
Corded tucks are made by placing a cord inside the fold. This makes the tuck more prominent. A zipper foot is
required for stitching this type of tuck. (Fig 6)

Fig 5 Fig 6

When tucks are used as a symmetrical element of decoration on the garment, the fold lines of either
side should either face centre front or they should be directed away from the centre.
Dart tucks are used for shaping the garment. They can be formed on shoulder line, front and back waistline of
the bodice and the front and back section of the lower garment. They are used to provide fullness and are usually
formed on the wrong side of the garment. In rare cases they are formed on right side for decorative effect. (Fig 7)
The difference between darts and dart tucks can be described as follows:
– Dart tucks are of less width (approx. 0.5 cm).

– To achieve the desired shape they are stitched in groups of 3 or 4.
– Dart tucks are of equal width on the full length while darts taper towards the end.
While stitching tucks some tools are useful:
A gauge made from cardboard helps stitching without marking the stitching lines. The length of gauge includes the
width of tuck and the space between the tucks. The notch indicates the width of tuck. If the gauge is placed with
the left edge on the stitching line of the previous tuck and the right edge is on the fold of the new tuck the notch
will indicate the position of the stitching line for the new tuck. (Fig 8)

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Exercise 48