Page 212 - CTS - Dress Making - TP - Volume - 1

DRESS MAKING - CITS

Additional material for hem and allowance to join the frill to the garment: 3 cm
Solution
a 1.80 x 3 = 5.40 m

b 12 cm + 3 cm = 15 cm
5.40 m : 1.10 = 4.9 (5 strips)
15 cm x 5 = 75 cm
Since the number of strips is got only by rounding off to a full (whole) number the balance material
generally is sufficient for the seam allowances which are required for joining the strips. If the number
of strips is calculated as a full (whole) number or close to a whole number an additional strips would
have to be calculated for the seam allowances.
In practice some material is saved while the material is frilled with less density. This is the reason why seam
allowances for joining the strips are not calculated separately in the example above and also in the following
exercises.
Exercises

1 Calculate the material requirements for frilled components (,seam allowance” in the last column is meant for
the hem of frill and for joining the frill to the garment).
2 A pattern width of 9.40 m is required for a frilled component. The width of fabric is 1.19 m. The length of frill shall
be 7.5 cm; 2 cm are required for hem and joining the frill to the garment. How many cm of fabric are required
for the frilled component?
3 A frill shall be attached to the hem of a skirt. For this a frilled component of 1.60 m frilled width is required. The
pattern width is reduced to 2/5 of its length. What is the length of the strip of material?

Pattern width Width of fabric Length of frill Fabric allowence

a 440 cm 0.98 m 12.5 cm 2.5 cm
b 210 cm 1.20 m 8 cm 3 cm

Hems

Objectives: At the end of this exercise you shall be able to
• explain about hems and types of hems.

A hem is a finish for any bottom edge of a garment. There are three basic forms - a turned up edge (the most
common), a faced edge and an enclosed edge. Although all are dealt with here as hem treatments any of them
might be used for other edges as well.
Selection of a hemming method depends largely on garment style and fabric. Whatever the choice, certain criteria
should always be met

Selection of a hemming method depends largely on garment style and fabric. Whatever the choice, certain criteries
should always be met:
1 The garment should hang evenly and gracefully.
2 There should be no lumpiness in the hem allowance.

3 Unless meant to be decorative, finished hems should be totally inconspicuous.

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Exercise 48