Page 213 - CTS - Dress Making - TP - Volume - 1

DRESS MAKING - CITS

Turning up the hem edge
In a turned-up hem, a certain width of fabric, the hem allowance, is folded inside the garment, then secured by
hand, machine or fusing. This is the hem type usually provided for in pattern designs, with the amount of turn-up
indicated on the pattern by a line or written instructions. It is wise to check this allowance before cutting out the
garment, should a change be desirable.
The hem’s shape, straight or curved, generally determines how much should be turned up. As a rule, the straighter
the edge, the deeper the hem allowance; the more it curves, the shallower the allowance. Exceptions are sheer
fabrics, in which a very deep or a narrow rolled hem may be preferable and soft knits. Where a narrow turn-up
will minimize sagging.

Hem allowance varies according to garment shape up to 8 cm is usually allowed for a straight garment 4 to 5 cm
for a flared one. Fabric weight should also be considered.
A hem line may look distorted if the hem curve is too extreme for, or does not align with, the fabric design. A slight
adjustment may be necessary, for a better effect.
Sewing hem by hand
Before a hem is secured by hand, the raw edge should be neatly finished. The finish chosen depends first on fabric
characteristics and garment style, second on personal preference. The edge can be left uncovered on fabric that
does not fray, also where a lining will cover the hem; use a covered edge for fabric that frays a great deal, and in
those situations where a more finished look is wanted.
There are two basic hand hemming methods - flat where stitches pass over the hem edge to the garment and
blind where the stitches are taken inside between hem and garment. Blind hems are best for heavier fabrics and
knits because the hem edge is not pressed into the garment.
Sewing a hem by machine
The major assets of machine hems are speed and extra sturdiness. They can also provide a decorative touch and
are especially appropriate if top stitching is part of the design machine stitches are more apparent on a hem than
hand stitches. Of the several methods, the blind stitched hem is the least conspicuous because only about every
sixth stitch catches the right side of the fabric. For blind stitching a hem on a knit or on fabric that does not fray.
For fabric that frays, see the method below.
Use machine hems only on garments where easily seen stitches do not detract from the overall appearance. Take
special care with all types of machine stitched hems to keep stitching on even distance from the hem line.
Faced hems
In a faced hem most of the hem allowance is eliminated; a band of light weight fabric is then stitched to the hem
and turned inside so it does not show. There are two basic facing forms - shaped (cut with grain lines and shape
conforming to the hem) and bias (cut as a bias strip, then shaped to fit). You can buy bias hem facing ready made
in various colours.

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Exercise 48