Page 218 - CTS - Dress Making - TP - Volume - 1

DRESS MAKING - CITS

Expanded facing: If the facing piece is cut as an extension of the garment (e.g. on front opening) it is called
extended facing. (Fig 5)
Piping is a method for a decorative edge finishing. It is cut from the bias material. The pipe is stitched between
the two layers of fabric to, form a flat welt on the edge. The pipe can also be filled with a cord to make the welt
stronger and more conspicuous. (Fig 6)

Fig 5 Fig 6

Enclosing of edges: This type of edge finishing can be done with straight or bias material.
Binding is used to finish and straighten raw edges or to add a decorative trim to a garment. It is a neat finish also
for reversible garments. It is used to finish necklines, armholes, sleeve edges, front closings, collars, cuffs and
seams. Ready made bias binding piece can also be used. (Fig 7)
Bias bindings can be applied in two ways: Single binding is cut to double the finished width plus two seam
allowances. Bindings are handled in the opposite manner to facings at Inward and outward curves. Stretch bias
on inward curves and eases it in outward curve Double binding or French binding is used on sheer fabrics. Here
the width is four to six times the required width. The binding piece is folded first and applied to the garment. It
gives a corded effect when finished.

Banding is an extension of a garment on the raw edge for example hemline and neckline. The width of banding
can vary according to the desired length. When used on hemline it is cut on the same grain. A contrasting material
can also be used. When applying bias piece as banding on curved shapes, only a narrow width is used. (Fig 8)

Fig 7 Fig 8

The following factors are to be considered while finishing necklines.
The design of facings and collars should harmonize well with the fabric design, i.e. big and bold floral designs,
checks or stripes are not suitable.
When designing the neckline, the purpose of the dress is important. For casual wear and uniforms prominent
decorative features are avoided.
While selecting the shape of the neckline the individual features of the wearer must be taken into consideration;
the following combinations are suitable:

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Exercise 48