Page 220 - CTS - Dress Making - TP - Volume - 1

DRESS MAKING - CITS

65 cm - 2.14 = 62.86 cm (length of lateral side s1)
62.86 cm x 1.4 = 88 cm

The length of bias strip will be 88 cm.
Joined bias strips
If the bias strips might be joined the layout will become much more economical. The strips can be laid out side by
side. The shape of the fabric will be rectangular. (Fig 9)
Example 1
A bias strip of 5 m length and 2.5 cm width is required. The shortest strip shall be of 10 cm minimum. The fabric
available is of 86 cm width. How much material is required?

Answer:
500 cm x 2.5 cm = 1250 cm (surface of the strips)
10 cm : 1.4 cm = 7.14 cm “ 7.1 cm (lateral side of balance triangle)
7.1 m x 7.1 cm = 50.41 cm2 (surface of both balance triangles)
1250 cm2 + 50.41 cm2= 1300.41 cm2 (surface of the fabric)

1300.41 cm2:86 cm = 15.12 cm m 15.5 cm (rounded to the next higher)
Explanation: The total surface of the fabric is calculated by adding the balance material to the surface for the
strips. The length of the piece of fabric is calculated by dividing the total surface into the width of fabric.
The result should always be rounded to the next higher number. Why?
Example 2
A piece of fabric of 96 cm width and 20 cm length is available. What is the length of
a joined bias strip of 2 cm width? The minimum length of the single strip shall be 10 cm.
96 cm x 20 cm = 1920 cm2 (surface of the fabric)
10 cm x 1.4 = 7.14 as 7.1 cm (lateral side of the balance triangle)
7.1 cm x7.1 cm = 50.41 cm2 (surface of both balance triangles)
1920 cm2-50.41 cm2 = 1869.59 cm2 (surface of the strips)
1869.59 cm2:2 cm = 934.79 9.34 m (rounded to the next lower)
Explanation: The calculated surface of the bias strips can be projected as a rectangle of 2 cm width and an
unknown length. The length of strip is calculated by dividing the surface of strips into the width of strips.
The result should always be rounded to the next lower number. Why?
Exercises

I. Calculate the missing values for single strips.
II Calculate the missing values for joined strips!
III Several edges of a dress shall be finished with bias binding. The single stretches of edges are 62 cm, 2 x 45
cm, 2 x 35 cm, 2 x 40 cm. Seam allowance regarding width of strip is 0.5 cm for each edge. Seam allowance for
joining the strips will be 9 cm in total. What quantity of material is required if the width of fabric is 0.72 m? The
minimum length of the single strip shall be 10 cm.

Length of strip Width of strip Side length of
square fabric
a 20 cm 2.5 cm ?

b ? 3 cm 40 cm
c 75 cm ? 62 cm

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Exercise 48