Page 219 - CTS - Dress Making - TP - Volume - 1

DRESS MAKING - CITS

• Round face - long pointed collar or V-neck
• Thin and long necks - standing collar or close neck
• Broad face and short neck - long pointed collar or wider neck shapes

• Long slender face - short collar points and broad spacing between the points or close neck.
Important hints to avoid trouble while stitching: To avoid bulge on the edge or comer of the neckline notches
should be given on inward curves.
To avoid bulge on the neckline edge of right side facing top stitching must be done on the right side close to the
neckline and the shoulder seam allowance should be pressed open.
On square and V-shaped necklines clipping should be done at the corners or at points. This is to avoid bulging
and to prepare for a flat set.
If a narrow facing is used it is hemmed to bodice fabric. Be careful to catch only one thread from the garment
section and don’t pull the thread tight. Otherwise stitches are visible from the right side.

Materials requirements for bias strips
A bias strip is a strip of material which is cut diagonally to the warp and weft yarns. Since it is very stretchable and
suitable to finish edges.

The shape of the material required for cutting a single bias strip is always a square.
s = length of edge of square material
s = s1 + s2
s1 = lateral side of the isosceles right-angle triangle D1, in which the length of the bias strip functions as the
hypotenuse
s2 = lateral side of the isosceles right-angle triangle D2, in which the width of the bias strip functions as the
hypotenuse.

From the theorem of Pythagoras it can be deduced, that the hypotenuse of the isosceles right-angle triangle is 1.4
times of the appropriate lateral sides.
Length of bias strip = s1 x 1.4

Width of the bias strip = s2x1.4
Side length of the square s = (length of strip x 1.4) + (width of strip x 1.4)
Example 1
A bias strip of 20 cm length and 2 cm width is required. What is the side length of the appropriate square piece of
fabric if the strip is cut on the true bias?
Answer:
20 cm: 1.4 = 14.28 cm (length of the lateral side s1)
2 cm : 1.4 = 1.42 cm (length of the lateral side s2)
14.28 cm + 1.42 cm = 15.7 cm

The side length of the square of fabric has to be 15.7 cm.
Explanation
If the length of strip is 1.4 times the length of the lateral side of triangle, then vice versa the length of the lateral
side of triangle is the 1.4th part of the length of strip.

Example 2
A square piece of fabric with 65 cm side length is available to cut a 3 cm wide bias strip. What is the length of the
bias strip if it is cut on the true bias?

Answer
3 cm: 1.4 = 2.14 cm (length of lateral side s2)

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Exercise 48