Page 217 - CTS - Dress Making - TP - Volume - 1

DRESS MAKING - CITS

All neck designs can be regarded as variations of three main shapes: round, square and V-shaped. (Fig 1)
If the plain shape shall be high lightened no decorative elements like frills etc. are attached. Instead the neckline
is finished by a facing piece which is invisible from right side.
There are different methods of finishing a raw edge in a garment, as on bottom, arm-hole, neckline etc. Beside
hemming, that is turning up the raw edge on the wrong side of the garment, there are two more methods of edge
finishing which are facing and enclosing of edges.
The material used for facing and enclosing of edges can be cut on the straight grain or on the bias, i.e. at a 45°angle
(diagonal) to the warp and weft.
Bias is mainly used on curved areas to ensure that the material can be stretched.
Facing is the method where a piece of fabric is used to finish the raw edge on wrong side of the garment. Facing
can be done as bias facing or shaped facing.
Bias facing is applied on a curved edge and done with the help of a strip. (Fig 2)

Fig 1 Fig 2

It is usually turned to the wrong side of the garment and will not be visible from right side. It is only turned to the
right side if a decorative effect is desired. When bias facing is applied on inward curves it should be eased while
stitching (easing means holding bias strip slightly loose at the seam line) and for outward curves it must be notched
for stretching (since the circumference increases). It is mainly applied on the neckline, armhole and on hemline
in skirts or sleeves.
Shaped facing can be of any width. It is cut to the exact shape of the garment edge to which it is to be applied,
usually it is cut on the same grain as the section of the garment it faces. It is often used to finish square or V
necklines. It is easier to apply than bias facing and is less conspicuous. It is usually cut separately for front and back.
It can also be used on armhole (sleeveless). Here the facing must be matching with the wrong side of garment,
so that it will be right side out when finished. (Fig 3)
A topstitch is very close to the neck shape line from right side is a must. This ensures that the facing stays flat on
the neck shape. (Fig 4)

Fig 3 Fig 4

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Exercise 48