Page 214 - CTS - Dress Making - TP - Volume - 1

DRESS MAKING - CITS

A shaped facing is applied as a rule, where a hem shape is unusual, as in the wrap skirt, right. Its use is limited
to a hem with minimal flare.
A bias hem facing is ideal for a widely flared hem, especially when the garment itself is cut on the bias. It is
recommended in place of a turned-up hem when (1) there is not enough hem allowance to turn up; (2) the fabric
is exceptionally bulky; (3) a skirt is circular in style.
Banding
Banding is an extension of a garment edge. It can be cut the same shape as the edge or on the bias. The latter
is the usual approach for a hem as it is ideal for adding length.
To prepare the hem for banding mark the hem line at the desired length measure up from the hem line a distance
equal to finished banding width; mark a new line and trim all but 6 mm of fabric below it.

Corners

Objectives: At the end of this exercise you shall be able to
• describe the types of corners and their features.

Corners are formed where two edges meet. The meeting place of corners has more layers. They are finished in
different methods.
Overlapping corners are slightly bulky, therefore constructed in light weight fabrics used for napkins, table cloths,
towels, handkerchiefs, bed covers etc. and also on the hem of dresses with full open front.
Variations of overlapping corners: When the hems on both the edges (lengthwise and widthwise hem) have
folds of equal size, we get a square corner. Reducing bulk at the corners of a heavy fabric, can be made by
cutting away a rectangular piece on the underlay. (Fig 1)

If one hem width is wider than the other side, then the finished corner will form a small rectangle. (Fig 2)

Fig 1 Fig 2

The diagonal joining of two edges at the corner is called mitring. The joint may be stitched or folded in
place. Only an accurate folding will help you to get a good mitring. To reduce the bulk of the material
on the under side, the joint is cut diagonally and pressed open. Mitred corners can be finished in two
directions, when the mitred piece goes around the corner, it is an outward corner (used in table cloth, pillow
cover, bed cover, etc.). If the piece lies within the corner then it is an inward corner (used in neck line)
(Fig 3)

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Exercise 48