Page 216 - CTS - Dress Making - TP - Volume - 1

DRESS MAKING - CITS

Casing, neck lines and edge finishing

Objectives: At the end of this exercise you shall be able to
• define casing
• explain types of casing.

A casing is a fabric tunnel through which elastic or a drawstring can be threaded to pull in or draw up the fabric.
Casing can be used at sleeves and pants hems as well as for garment waist bands. The most common use of
casings is for waist bands on pull on pants and skirts, pajamas. This is best suited for straight edges. Waistline
casings are practical because they can be adjusted easily to change in waist measurement - merely tighten or
loosen the drawstring or elastic.
A casing should 6 cm wider than the elastic (or drawstring) so the elastic or drawstring can move easily through
the tunnel, but not so loose that it twists easily.
There are two types of casing
a Fold down casing
b Applied casing
Fold down casing
A fold down casing is formed by turning an extension at the garment edge to the inside and stitching it in place.
Fold down casing are of three type
1 Casing with drawstring - Used in Petticoat, pull on pyjamas
2 Casing with elastic - Used in baby garments, pants etc.
Applied casing
An applied casing consists of a separate strip of fabric that is stitched to the area to be drawn up on either the
outside or the inside of the garment. If the casing is inside but the drawstring is required outside, provision is to be
made to lead the drawstring outside. This can be done with button hole or with opening in the seam. An applied
casing may be sewn on a one piece garment that has no waistline seam.
A casing sewn from inside may be of light weight lining fabric or a readymade bias binding to reduce unnecessary
bulk. The applied casing also act as facing for a top edge of pants and skirts and the lower edge of blouses and
jackets. Applied casing from outside may have of same colour and material or of contrast colour fabric.
3 Inside applied casing - Used in the waist line of jackets/ dresses/ pants etc.
4 Outside applied casing - Used in the waist line of jackets/ dresses/ pants etc.
Casing with heading can be formed on either type of casing having free edge. This is done after making a tunnel,
stitch a second row of after the desired depth of the casing. When the casing is drawn up it will gather the heading
automatically.
Safety precautions
1 Lines should be parallel to grain.
2 Elastic may not twist inside the casing.
3 Back/ secure stitch should be there to secure the open ends.
4 Always remove the tacking before finishing.

Neck lines and edge finishing

Objectives : At the end of this exercise you shall be able to
• explain the different types of neck designs
• name the different methods of finishing raw edges
• describe the main difference in facing, banding and binding and their suitable application
• explain the required materials for bias piece.

The design of the neckline generally is given importance, since it will influence the style of the garment and it
should suit the person wearing the garment. Neck lines must be finished with special accuracy since they attract
the attention easily.

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Exercise 48