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FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS




           1  Place a layer of tissue paper on the cutting table (this prevents the soft design fabric from slipping when
              cutting.
           2  Layers of tissue paper can also stabilize soft fabrics when laser cutting).

           3  Layer the design fabric on top of the tissue paper.
           4  Make sure this fabric is lying evenly with cross-grain perpendicular to the selvage.
           5  If you pull a crossgrain thread and cut along this line, you can check to be sure the actual crossgrain is at right
              angles to the selvage.
           6  Lay the paper or fabric patterns in cutting layout on top of the fabric. It may be necessary to  place another
              layer of tissue paper first to keep the design fabric from shifting.
           7  Pin and cut through all layers.

           8  Pin bra-top panels together.


           TASK 7: Final fitting
           1  Once the side seams have stretched, pin the side seams by folding and lapping them. pin them smoothly
              together.
           2  If one seam is hanging lower trim it to match the shorter seam.
           3  Check the balance of the garment; are all flares in harmony; If not, re-pin until you are satisfied.
           4  Pin or baste the bra-top to the empire style line.
           5  Look over the drape and check the style line placements and be sure that all the markings are correct.

           6  A final hemline can be established at this point.
           7  When satisfied, unpin and blend seams as needed.
           8  Measure the differences between original seams and the new adjusted marks.
           9  Correct the patterns as needed.


                                     Fig 1                   Fig 2

























           TASK 8: Adjust Patterns to Offset Bias Stretch
           This method can be applied to any bias-draped garment to adjust a pattern developed in muslin to an appropriate
           pattern for production  the design fabric. The patterns from the drape are generally trimmed smaller, as the design
           fabric usually hangs more softly than the lightweight muslin. The stitched garment from the new patterns in the
           design fabric will stretch to the body's shape and dimensions.




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                                CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology - Exercise 24
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