Page 212 - CITS - Fashion Design Technology - Trade Theory

FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS

Steam helps to relax the fibers in the garment and the tunnel helps in avoiding the need for any other pressing
process before or after this operation. In some cases, it completely eliminates the other pressing processes.
These tunnels are incorporated with infrared drying in some cases. As the garments are vertically hung, the
turbulence of blown air provides additional energy to remove wrinkles in woven fabrics. Proper care should be
taken during pressing operation for fibers where excessive agitation causes fabric deformation.

Press cladding
Bucks of steam presses and the ironing tables used with hand irons are normally covered with silicone foam. This
is covered on the outer side normally by a top cover of polyester woven fabric. The heads of the steam presses
could be covered with several layers of materials like a layer made of metal gauze for uniform steam distribution,
a layer of synthetic felt to shield the next layer, the main layer of cotton knitted padding, and a last layer of outer
cover as on the buck.
Creasing machines
These creasing machines are used to fold over and press the edges of clothing components such as pockets
or cuffs to prepare them for easy sewing. Blades are used to create creases and folds. The component is kept
over a die with blades aiding in forming creases around it and required pressure is exerted during pressing cycle.
Creasing machine is actually preparation under pressing machine.
Pleating Machine
Pleating is the process of creating pleats in the garment.Pleating is done by using pressure, moisture and heat.
There are two types in machine pleating. One is a blade machine in which pleats are formed by the action of
blades and then set by heat and pressure when they pass through a pair of rollers and the other type is a rotary
machine in which the rollers are fitted with complimentary dies.
Block or Die pressing
In die pressing, the fabric is kept over a fixed die prior to the application of steam, heat and pressure. This is
normally used for shaping and moulding of hat and gloves during the manufacturing process. Another variety of an
automated die pressing machine is utilized for combined folding and creasing of patch pockets as well as pocket
flaps, in which the operator has to keep the components to be pressed over a die and engages the machine for
folding and creasing.
Permanent press:

The permanent press method normally results in reduction of fabric strength. This method was developed for
producing better crease recovery of cellulosic fabrics. The process involves processing the fabrics during its
manufacture with a resin. A permanent press fabric is processed after the resin treatment and is then made into
garments. The method is commonly used for trousers to introduce the creases at the seams and hems and down
the front and back. The garments are then passed through an oven to cure the resin in the fabric.

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CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design Technology - Lesson 25 CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design Technology - Lesson 25