Page 32 - CITS - Dress Making - TT - 2024

DRESS MAKING - CITS

The below formula is used to measure the proficiency of the marker:

Area of the pattern in the marker plan
Marker efficiency = x 100
The total area of the marker plan

Test Fit: As each design project is completed, the design should be cut in muslin (or fabric chosen for the design)
and placed on a form or model for a test fit. One-half of the garment is needed when fitting the form (unless it is
an asymmetrical design, which requires a full garment). A full garment is required when fitting the model.
Seam allowances can be added in one of two ways for a test fit:
1 The seamless pattern can be traced on cloth, adding seam allowance directly on the fabric.
2 Seam allowances can be added to the pattern before cutting in cloth.

Pattern Grainline: The pattern grainline is a line drawn on each pattern piece to indicate the direction on the fabric
a pattern should be cut. It will always be placed on the fabric so that the grainline is parallel to the selvage edge.
Direction of Grainline:
• Vertical grainlines are drawn parallel to center for garments cut on straight grain.

• Horizontal grainlines are drawn at right angles to center for garments cut on crosswise grain.
• Bias grainlines are drawn at an angle to center (45° angle for true bias) for garments cut on the bias.

Grainline Arrows
• Arrows placed at both ends of the grainline indicate that the top of the pattern may be placed in either direction
along the lengthwise grainline of the fabric (for fabrics without a nap).
• An arrow placed at the top or the bottom of the grainline indicates that the pattern must be placed in one
direction only (for fabrics with a nap)

17

CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 6 & 7 (2)