Page 33 - CITS - Dress Making - TT - 2024
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DRESS MAKING - CITS
The effect of grainline on garments is shown below:
Fabric Terms
Muslin: A plain-woven cotton made from bleached or unbleached corded yarns in a variety of weights:
• Coarse-weave: Used for draping and testing basic patterns.
• Light-weight: Used for softly draped garments.
• Heavy-weight: Firmly woven, used for testing tailored garments, jackets, and coats.
Grain: The direction in which the yarn is woven or knitted (lengthwise grain, or warp; crosswise grain, or weft).
Lengthwise grain (warp): Yarns parallel with selvage and at right angles to the crosswise grain. It is the most
stable grain.
Crosswise grain (weft): Yarns woven across the fabric from selvage to selvage. It is the filling yarn of woven
fabrics.
Selvage: The narrow, firmly woven, and finished strip on both lengthwise grain edges of the woven fabric.
Bias: A slanting or diagonal line cut or sewn across the weave of the cloth.
True bias: The angle line that intersects with the lengthwise and crosswise grains at a 45° angle. True bias has
maximum give and stretch, easily conforming to the figure’s contours. Flares, cowls, and drapes work best when
cut on true bias.
Bowing and skewing: Bowing & Skewing are defects which are created when there is a distortion in weft laid
across the whole with of the fabric. Both need to taken care and handled properly during weaving and finishing to
avoid wastage at garmenting stage.
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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 6 & 7 (2)
