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FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS



              20-21 = 2 Cms.

              9-22 = 3.25 Cms. 1/2 measurement of 5-9.
              22-23 = 0.5 Cm. down.
              Draw back forkline 23 - 19 using french curve and join 19 and 21 using one feet scale.
              Extend the waistline 5cms. outside from point 1 using one feet scale.
              21-24 = 23 Cms. 1/4 waist + 4 Cms. for two darts + 2 Cms. for two seams.
              Divide the line 21-24 into three parts. Mark points 25 and 25 A. Draw perpendicular lines from 25 & 25A.
              Construct darts on those lines 2 Cms. wide. Length from point 25 , 12 Cm and length from point 25A is 10 Cm.
              17-26 = 27 Cms. 1/4 Hip + 1.5 Cm+ 2 Cms. for two seams.
              12-27, 13-28, 14-29 & 15-30 = 2 Cms.

              Draw the side seam through points 24-26-29-27.
              Shape 23-30 with a inward curve of 1.25 Cms. using curved scale.
              Extend the bottom folding.
           4  Cut the Front and Back patterns using pattern scissors.

           5  Draw the grainline  in both front and back patterns using green ink pen and ‘L’ square. Write the pattern
              particulars.
           6  Prepare the waist band pattern.



           TASK 2 : Cut and sew the Laides’ Trousers
           1  Cut the required components of the ladies Trousers using Open layout method.  (Refer the Skill sequence
              No.1)

           2  Construct darts in front sides. (Refer Skill Sequence No.2.)
           3  Construct Darts in back portions.
           4  Prepare the side seam pockets in front sides. (Refer Skill Sequence No.3)
           5  Prepare the Zip fly. (Refer Skill Sequence No.4)

              Note: The fly overlap should be right to left side. The fly shield should be attached at the left Front
              and Fly facing should be attached at the Right side.

           6  Join sides of front and back using 5 thread over lock machine.
           7  Prepare the belt and attach on waistline. (Refer Skill Sequence No.5)

              Note: The Waist band overlap should be right to left side. The fly extension should be at the left
              Front and the waist band extension should be at the Right side.

           8  Stitch the inside leg seam joining front and back together using 5 thread over lock machine.
           9  Stitch crotch from back to front upto the zip fly forming cross seam at the joint of seam lines.
           10 Lock at the end of fly from right side, making a triangle of 0.5 cm with double row of stitching.
           11 Clip crotch seam allownace on the shaped portion in diagonal direction upto 5 mm. Press it open and set flat
              by stretching. Stitch self bound seam on seam allowance. Press and finish at the top with hemming.
           12 Inside the trousers, sew the edges of lower end of the shield lining to crotch seam allowances. Be careful,
              stitches should not be visible on front side.
           13 Finish the bottom line with broad hem.
           14 Fix and stitch one pant hook in the centre of the extended edge at waist band on the wrond side. Fix another
              hook on waistband above the zip fly on wrond side. Be careful that the edge of hook and stitches are not visible
              from front side.


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                                CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology - Exercise 23
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