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FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS



           15 Fix eyes on the other side of waist band (matching with the position of the hooks).
           16 Trim the threads, finish and press

              Note: Get the work checked by your Instructor


           Skill Sequence

           Cutting the parts by open layout method

           At the end of this exercise, you will be able to
           •  cut the required components of the Ladies’ Trousers by Open layout method.


           Select a suitable fabric used construct the pleated Trou- sers and place the fabric in the open width form on the
           cutting table. Make sure that the used fabric should be pressed neatly and free from wrinkles.If the fabric has right
           and wrong side difference, then the layout should be made on the right side of the fabric.
           Collect all the patterns of the pleated Trousers. It is better o use duplicate patterns for pieces, which have to be
           used twice. Place the patterns on the fabric.While placing the patterns on a fabric, the grain line marked on the
           pattern
           should be kept parallel to the selvedge of the fabric by measuring from each end of the grain line to the selvedge.
           It is better to place the large patterns at one end of the fabric or both the ends. The wider end of the large patterns
           may be placed at the cut end of the material. Also, the wider end of one pattern may be placed near the narrow
           end of another pattern. Small pattern pieces should be placed between larger ones.All the patterns should be laid
           closely to achieve economical layout.After laying all the patterns on the fabric, meausre the fabric consumption.
           (Fig 1).
             Fig 1














           Before marking, you have to make different pattern lay- outs and out of them you have to select the best one,
           which gives the minimum fabric consumption. The final layout should have more efficiency without wasting the
           materials.
           After making the pattern layout, mark the outlines of the pattern by a sharp marking chalk. The marked lines
           should be clear and without any corrections.The notches, pleat marks, dart positions of the patterns should be
           clearly transferred.

              Note: For Front and back pocket bags, make a seperate layout and cut the parts using poplin fabric.


           Skill Sequence


           Construct darts
           At the end of this exercise, you will be able to
           •  construct darts at Front and Back of Ladies’.

           Trousers
           Take the back part and mark a line 25-25A on the wrong side of the fabric according to the dart length required



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                                CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology -  Exercise 23
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