Page 266 - CITS - Dress Making - TT - 2024

DRESS MAKING - CITS

Sailor Collar
The sailor collar was inspired by the sailor’s uniform and is based on instructions of the nonconvertible collar.
Mandarin Collar
A Mandarin collar (also called military, Nehru, and Chinese collar) is a loose-fitting, stand-up collar. It separates
in front and varies in width from 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches on the average. It is the base for other collars, stands, and
combination collar-and-stand variations. The collar may meet at center front, be overlapped and buttoned, or be
extended to any point along the neckline. The Mandarin can be developed either close to or away from the neck.
It can be curved, blunted, pointed, or extended for a partial folded-over collar effect. The neckline measurement
is needed to draft this collar.

Collar with Stand
A collar is attached to the top edge of a Mandarin stand that has an extension for the button and buttonhole (like
as a shirt collar).
Roll Collars
Bias-fold collar bands can be developed for any neckline (basic or for a wider neckline). The finished length,
however, should be slightly shorter than the area covered to compensate for the stretch of the bias fabric. The
collar width may be planned for either a folded bias band or a band folded back on itself. Cut the band equal to
the front and back neck measurement. Stretch the collar band slightly when stitching to the neck of the garment.

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 42 - 45 (8)