Page 44 - CITS - Dress Making - TT - 2024

DRESS MAKING - CITS

Functions of Drafting Tools

Tools provide the symbols used in marking fabric and patterns in the production of garments. Symbols are like
a silent language that are understood among the designer, seamstress, grader, marker maker, and production
personnel. Without these symbols, garments would not be cut or stitched with accuracy. Missing or misplaced
symbols disrupt the flow of production.
Notch Tool
The notch tool has a cutting blade that slips into the pattern’s edge, leaving an 1/8- to 1/4-inch cut-out. As the
patterns are traced, the notch cut-outs are marked on the fabric. The cutter slashes the fabric at these locations.
The seamstress assembles and stitches the garment parts following the notches (Fig 1).
The notch is used to indicate:
• Seam allowance (Fig 2).
• Center lines.
• Identification of front and back patterns.
• Correct assembling of similar pattern parts (Fig 3).
• Correct location of joining parts. Gather and ease control (Fig 2). Dart intake (Fig 1).

Fig 1 Fig 2

• Shoulder tip of extended shoulders.
• Waistline of one-piece garments.
• Zipper stopping point.
• Fold-back for hems and facings.

• Placement for inserts.
• Tension release (acute curves).
• Inverse corners (Fig 2).

Unless instructed otherwise, 1/4-inch seams are not notched. Overlocked seams are generally
not notched.

Awl Punch and Circle

The awl puts a hole (or mark) on the pattern. The hole is circled to notify the marker maker that a drill is needed to
burn a hole in the fabric, which damages the garment. That is why the placement of the drill hole is always inside
the finished seam (to cover the damage in the fabric).
• Dart back-off point (Fig 1).
• 1/8 inch in from corners.
• Buttonholes and buttons.
• Trimming.
• Pocket placements.

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 6 & 7 (3)